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The Full Ingredient List and the 1% Rule
How to read a cosmetic label

Every cosmetic sold in Korea lists its ingredients in order of amount. But anything at 1% or less, along with fragrances and colorants, can be listed in any order. Here is how to read a label accurately, based on the MFDS rules.

Based on Korea Cosmetics Act Article 10 and Enforcement Rule Annex 4 · Updated September 2026

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Every cosmetic sold in Korea must list all of its ingredients under Article 10 of the Cosmetics Act, and Schedule 4 of the Enforcement Rule sets the order: from the largest amount to the smallest. The 1% rule complicates that picture, since ingredients at 1% or less do not have to follow the order. Fragrances and colorants are exempt from the order too, whatever their amount. That makes it hard to read exact amounts off a label. This guide explains how to read a label accurately, based on the MFDS notices.

The basic rules for the full ingredient list

These are the labeling rules under Article 10 of Korea's Cosmetics Act and Schedule 4 of the enforcement rules.

  1. Every ingredient must be listed. In principle, everything that goes into the product has to appear.
  2. Listed in order of amount. From the most to the least.
  3. INCI names or Korean standard names. The same ingredient is written under one consistent name.
  4. Ingredients at 1% or less, fragrances and colorants can be listed in any order. The part about ingredients at 1% or less is what people call the 1% rule.
  5. Allergenic fragrance ingredients must be listed by name once they pass a set concentration.

What the 1% rule means

The 1% rule means that ingredients at 1% or less do not have to be listed in order of amount. So within that zone, the label order may not match the real order by amount.

Here is an example.

Example: the ingredient list of a serum
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid, EDTA, Fragrance

In this example, everything after phenoxyethanol is most likely below 1%. Phenoxyethanol has a usage limit of 1% under Korea's Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics, so by industry practice the ingredients listed after it are estimated to be at or below 1%.

So even when retinol appears ahead of EDTA on the label, there may actually be more EDTA in the formula. Within the zone of 1% or less, you cannot read the exact order by amount off a label.

Clues for estimating the amount

The 1% rule keeps the exact amounts out of reach, but a label still offers clues for finding the 1% line.

Ingredients that mark the 1% line

IngredientTypical use levelWhat it tells you
Phenoxyethanol0.5–1% (Korean limit 1%)Preservative. By practice, read what follows it as 1% or less.
Xanthan Gum0.1–0.5%Thickener. By practice, what follows it is estimated at 1% or less.
EDTA / Disodium EDTA0.05–0.2%Chelating agent. Korea sets no legal limit for it, but it is usually used in small amounts, so by practice what follows it is estimated at 1% or less.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)0.05–1%Antioxidant. Generally below 1%.
Fragrance / Parfum0.01–1%Exempt from the order rule by law, so its position says nothing about amount (not a 1% line clue). A separately listed allergen hints at its level.

Typical levels for key active ingredients

Where the active sits on the label is the heart of estimating how well it works.

IngredientEffective levelLikely spot on the label
Niacinamide2–10%Within the top 5
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)5–20%Top 5
Retinol0.025–1%Usually below 1%, so position alone is a poor guide. Check for a separate listing.
Salicylic Acid (BHA)0.5–2%Korean limits: 0.5% as a preservative or in leave-on products (the acne functional notice amount is also 0.5%), 2% in body cleansers, 3% in rinse-off hair products, other uses prohibited
Hyaluronic Acid0.1–2%Often below 1%, yet it still works
Peptides0.05–5%Mostly below 1%
Still life of a magnifying glass resting on a lavender leaf

Labeling allergenic fragrance ingredients

The EU and Korea's MFDS each keep a list of fragrance ingredients with a reported potential to trigger allergies. Once any of these pass a set concentration, they carry a separate-listing requirement. The EU added 56 more to its list in 2023 under Regulation (EU) 2023/1545.

Well-known ingredients from the original list (written in English on the label):

Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Eugenol, Hydroxycitronellal, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, Methyl 2-Octynoate, α-Isomethyl Ionone, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Anise Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Cinnamal, Coumarin, Farnesol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Cinnamate, Geraniol, Amylcinnamyl Alcohol, Evernia Prunastri Extract, Evernia Furfuracea Extract.

A practical tip. If the label lists Fragrance plus a few of these ingredients on their own, it means those ingredients are present at or above the required level. If you have a fragrance allergy, always check for these listings.

Watch for labeling differences when buying from abroad

Country / regionHow it is labeled
KoreaKorean standard name, with INCI alongside allowed. Order by amount plus the 1% rule.
EU / UKINCI only. Order by amount plus the 1% rule. Listed fragrance allergens must be named.
United StatesINCI or common names. Order by amount plus the 1% rule. The FDA has separate colorant rules.
JapanJapanese names. Order by amount plus the 1% rule.

Products bought from abroad mostly carry English INCI labels, so you can look up the Korean names in the Korea Cosmetic Association's Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary to check them.

The catch behind free-from claims

Labels such as paraben-free or alcohol-free are marketing phrases. A few things are worth knowing.

Editorial Tip

Look for the line, not the order

"When you read an ingredient list, do not pick apart the order item by item. Find where a boundary ingredient like phenoxyethanol or xanthan gum sits, and the answer comes faster. By practice, we estimate what sits above it at more than 1% and what sits below it at 1% or less."

— Beauty Dupe Editorial

Frequently asked questions

Is it a good sign when water is listed first?

Water naturally tops the list in water-based products like toners, serums and lotions. If water is missing, the formula is probably oil-based or silicone-based and water-free. What matters more than whether water comes first is the makeup of the ingredients that follow it.

If an active sits below the top five, does it do nothing?

It depends on the ingredient. Peptides and retinol work even below 0.1%, so they can help even when they sit below the top five. Niacinamide and vitamin C are the opposite. They need around 2 to 5% or more, so they should appear near the top of the list.

Why does the 1% rule exist?

It is known to account for the fact that the amounts of key ingredients are trade secrets, along with the cost of measuring trace ingredients precisely. The EU, the United States and Korea share the basic idea of listing from the largest amount down, but their exceptions and position rules differ. The EU requires ingredients under 1% to come after those above 1%, while Korea's rule text sets no such position constraint.

Is there any way to know the exact concentration?

Manufacturers sometimes disclose it voluntarily. Some dermatology-focused brands print the concentration of key ingredients on the package. The Korea Cosmetic Association's Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary lists each ingredient's English name, definition and purpose, but not the amount in any given product.

Skin Warning

Labels like paraben-free, alcohol-free or natural do not automatically mean a product is safe. If you have a history of allergies, always check whether allergenic fragrance ingredients are listed on their own.

Sources

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Disclaimer · This guide is general information and does not replace an analysis of an individual product's ingredients. For accurate ingredient information, check the product package and the manufacturer's official materials.
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