What a functional cosmetic is: permission to state an effect
Korea's Cosmetics Act (Article 2, Clause 2) puts products that claim set effects, such as skin brightening, wrinkle care or UV protection, in a separate category called functional cosmetics. Before they are made or imported, they must be reported to or reviewed by the MFDS.
Only products that clear this process may say things like "helps brighten skin" or "helps improve wrinkles" on the package and in ads. A regular cosmetic cannot state these effects, even if its formula includes a similar ingredient.
Two ways to become a functional cosmetic
- Using listed ingredients: if a product uses ingredients the MFDS has already listed in its Regulation on the Review of Functional Cosmetics, at the set amounts, the supporting data on efficacy is waived.
- Going through review: a new ingredient or a different amount needs safety and efficacy data and a separate review.
The listed amount is not a maximum. It is the level at which data submission is waived. Using more is not banned; it just goes through regular review.
Types of functional cosmetics
Here are the types you meet most often, with examples of listed ingredients. The full list is in the MFDS notices.
- Brightening: niacinamide, arbutin, ascorbyl glucoside, ethyl ascorbyl ether, alpha-bisabolol and others
- Wrinkle care: retinol, retinyl palmitate, adenosine, polyethoxylated retinamide
- UV protection: approved UV filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
- Easing acne-prone skin: salicylic acid
There are other types too, such as easing hair loss symptoms or easing dryness from atopic skin. Some products are cleared for both brightening and wrinkle care, and then both functions appear on the package.
How they differ from regular cosmetics
- Before launch: functional products are reported to or reviewed by the MFDS. Regular cosmetics can be sold without this step.
- Effect claims: functional products can state their cleared effect, and regular cosmetics cannot claim functional effects.
- Typical products: functional products include brightening serums, wrinkle creams and sunscreens, while regular ones include moisturizers, cleansers and toners.
Neither is a medicine. Prescription retinoids and other medicines fall under the Pharmaceutical Affairs Act, not the Cosmetics Act.
A functional label does not mean a better product
The functional label means the product has grounds to claim that effect, not that it works better than others. Products without the label can still contain plenty of good ingredients, and how your skin responds depends on ingredient amounts and your skin's condition. Check the ingredient list alongside the label.
How to check the label
- "Functional cosmetic" on the package: a functional product says so on the package, along with which function it has, such as brightening or wrinkle care.
- Products with SPF or PA: any product that claims UV protection with SPF or PA is functional, including BB creams and foundations. For reading the numbers, see What SPF and PA Mean.
- The ingredient list: if a listed ingredient is present but there is no functional label, it is a regular cosmetic that does not claim the effect. To judge how much is in it, see the 1% rule.
Frequently asked questions
Are functional cosmetics always better than regular cosmetics?
No. The functional label is permission to state the effect on the product and in ads, not a promise that it works better than others. Products without the label can still contain plenty of good ingredients, and results depend on ingredient amounts and your skin.
Is every sunscreen a functional cosmetic?
Products that claim UV protection and show SPF or PA are functional cosmetics. That covers BB creams and foundations with SPF on the label, not just sunscreen.
Where can I check the listed ingredients?
The MFDS Regulation on the Review of Functional Cosmetics and the Standards and Testing Methods for Functional Cosmetics list ingredients and amounts by type. The package also states whether a product is functional and which function it has.
Can I use a product with a brightening ingredient but no functional label?
Yes. That product just cannot state or advertise an effect like brightening. The difference is in what it may claim, not in what the ingredient does on your skin.
Skin Warning
Functional cosmetics can still cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. Patch-test any new product on a small area before applying it to your face. If irritation persists, stop use and consult a dermatologist.
References
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