Some ingredients earn attention because they perform like retinol with far less of the irritation. Bakuchiol is one of them. It is a plant-derived ingredient pressed from the seeds of the babchi plant. This guide covers how it works, how it differs from retinol, whether it is safe in pregnancy, and how to use it, all from the clinical research.
British Journal of Dermatology trial · ACOG guidance · Updated June 2026
Two Key Mechanisms
The two ways bakuchiol works
01. Retinoid-like Action
Retinol-like action
Bakuchiol has a different chemical structure from retinol, yet it appears to switch on similar signals inside skin cells. A 2014 study by Chaudhuri's team that looked at how skin cells respond at the gene level was the first to flag this resemblance.
02. Antioxidant
Antioxidant action and light stability
Bakuchiol also works as an antioxidant, mopping up the free radicals (oxidative stress) that speed up aging. Retinol can break down and lose potency when it meets light and air. Bakuchiol holds up better against light and heat, so it works in a morning routine too.
Bakuchiol comes from the seeds of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), long used in traditional medicine across India and China. It caught the cosmetics industry's eye once research showed it helps renew skin much the way retinol does. The two are different at the root, though. Retinol is an animal-derived ingredient, while bakuchiol comes from a plant and belongs to an entirely different family. They share an effect, not an identity.
The head-to-head trial with retinol
A study that put the two side by side appeared in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019 (Dhaliwal et al.). To keep the results from tilting one way, neither the participants nor the researchers knew who was using which product (a randomized double-blind design). Over 12 weeks, 44 adults applied 0.5% bakuchiol twice a day and 0.5% retinol once a day. Both groups improved to a similar degree across fine lines, pigmentation, elasticity and texture. The difference came down to side effects. Dryness, flaking and stinging were noticeably more common in the retinol group.
Of course, one study cannot prove bakuchiol is equal to retinol. The group was small at 44 people. The two were also used at different frequencies: retinol once a day and bakuchiol twice. For now the evidence is enough to say bakuchiol is worth a closer look as a retinol alternative, and larger studies are underway.
Category
Retinol
Bakuchiol
Type
Animal-derived (retinoid family)
Plant-derived (different family)
How it works
Acts directly on skin-renewal signals
Triggers similar signals (different structure)
Light & heat stability
Low (needs opaque packaging)
Relatively high
Morning use
Best at night (can raise light sensitivity)
Fine in the morning too
Pregnancy
ACOG advises caution
Not a retinoid, but human data is limited
Irritation
Early dryness and flaking common
Less irritating in the head-to-head trial
Bakuchiol and skincare during pregnancy
Retinoids such as retinol are ones the American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists (ACOG) advises pregnant and breastfeeding women to use with care. That is why bakuchiol comes up so often as the ingredient people reach for in place of retinol during pregnancy. Bakuchiol is not a retinoid, so the cautions attached to retinoids do not automatically apply to it.
That does not mean you can relax completely, since human data in pregnancy is still thin. Animal studies have not reported particular toxicity, but there is no large study in pregnant women yet. So if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, it is best to check with your OB-GYN or dermatologist before adding anything new. For a fuller picture of what is fine and what to avoid, see our pregnancy and breastfeeding skincare guide.
How to use it
Concentration: The main trials used 0.5%. Most products on the market fall between 0.5% and 1%.
When to use it: Unlike retinol it holds up well in light, so morning or night both work. Either way, daytime calls for sunscreen over any active.
Pairings: It clashes with acidic ingredients far less than retinol does. It sits well with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Even with AHAs or BHAs, the overlapping irritation you get from retinol is rare. Still, start by watching how your skin responds and adjust the amount.
Easing in: It is gentler than retinol, but treat it like any new active. Start light at two or three times a week, see how your skin takes it, then build up.
Editorial Tip
Bakuchiol is a complement to retinol, not a straight replacement
"Bakuchiol is an option when retinol does not suit you or retinoids are off the table, with a similar pathway to lean on. The body of evidence is smaller than retinol's. But if you need to avoid retinol, it is one of the most studied alternatives out there."
— Beauty Dupe Editorial
Good to know about pairings
Using it with retinol: The two work along similar paths, so if you are not already used to retinol, starting them together is not a good idea. Get comfortable with one first, then ask a dermatologist whether to combine them.
Using it with vitamin C: Bakuchiol works in the morning too, so it sits happily next to vitamin C in an a.m. routine. For pairings in general, see which ingredients not to mix.
Where it goes in your routine: It often comes as a serum or an oil, so place it at the serum or oil step. If the order trips you up, check the skincare layering order.
The Synthesis of Wisdom
Three ways to think about bakuchiol
Its plant origin, its lower irritation next to retinol, and how widely it pairs. Those three are why bakuchiol gets so much attention.
01. Stability
Stable in light and heat
Retinol breaks down easily in light, heat and the oxygen in the air. Bakuchiol holds up far better. It leans less on opaque packaging and works in a morning routine, which is a real practical edge.
02. Tolerance
Gentler on skin
In the 2019 trial, dryness, flaking and stinging showed up more in the retinol group. If your skin is sensitive or retinol was always a struggle, this is an ingredient you can ease into with less to worry about.
03. Compatibility
Flexible pairings
Retinol turns unstable around acidic ingredients, so it is hard to use in the same slot as AHAs or vitamin C. Bakuchiol is less sensitive to pH, so it fits more freely into different routines.
"
Bakuchiol is gentler than retinol and more flexible in how you pair it. If you have a reason to avoid retinol, it is one of the best-researched alternatives available today.
Beauty Dupe Editorial
Frequently asked questions
Can bakuchiol be used during pregnancy?
Bakuchiol is plant-derived rather than a retinoid, so it does not fall under the ACOG pregnancy caution that applies to retinol and retinoic acid. That said, human data in pregnancy is still limited, so anyone pregnant or breastfeeding should check with a doctor before using it.
Can I use retinol and bakuchiol together?
Both push skin renewal, so using them at once can stack up irritation. People already used to retinol sometimes pair them, but it is better to start with one at a time and watch how your skin reacts.
How long until bakuchiol works?
In the 2019 trial, fine lines and pigmentation had eased by the 12-week mark. As with retinol, consistency is what matters, so give it at least 8 to 12 weeks of steady use before judging the change.
Which skin types does bakuchiol suit?
It is known to be gentler than retinol, so it comes up as a good fit for sensitive or dry skin and for anyone who found retinol hard going. Whatever your skin type, patch test any new ingredient first.
Skin Warning
Bakuchiol is still an active, so ease in at two or three times a week, watch how your skin reacts, then adjust. If irritation or redness keeps up, stop and let the barrier recover before trying again. Anyone pregnant or breastfeeding should speak with a doctor before use.
Sources
Dhaliwal S, et al. "Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing." Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296.
Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. "Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects." Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(3):221-230.
American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists (ACOG) — Committee Opinion on cosmetics during pregnancy and lactation
Korea Ministry of Food and Drug Safety — Cosmetic Ingredient Database (Bakuchiol, INCI: Bakuchiol)
Disclaimer · This guide is general information and does not replace a personal skin diagnosis. If irritation or breakouts occur, stop use and see a dermatologist. Anyone pregnant or breastfeeding should consult an OB-GYN or dermatologist before using a new ingredient.
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